Datcat

This blouse is a mock-wrap straight blouse with lapels and lined front. Version A has short sleeves, version B has ¾ sleeves and sleeve tabs. I made version A with short sleeves.

The size range is 34 to 46 (printed) – 34 to 52 (PDF),  but the sizes are quite small, and quite narrow in the hip.  I used size 50, shortened to petite, with an FBA and added width to the back.  I made some major changes to allow for my height (petite) and body shape (plus).

Overall, the pattern wasn’t too difficult, but there are inconsistencies. There are no instructions to stay stitch the neck edge before applying the neck binding, the sleeve heads need a line of ease stitching to be done prior to setting in the sleeve, and of course like a lot of PDF’s, the pattern tends to assume you understand about things like finishing edges, clipping curves etc.  I like the aesthetic of the front edges. It presents a fairly tailored appearance. I did not like the “double layer” front. I altered the front to use a facing on the neck edges. With a much lighter fabric I can see it would work fine, although I would worry that the front would drag the back forward. A rayon woven from my stash.

Because I am short, and plus sized I had to make a number of changes to the design, to work with my body shape. I made the following changes:
1.   I shortened the pattern at the “shorten here” line, folding up by 2cm, to keep the hemline at the hip line.  I think I might pull this back to 1cm in future tops.
2.   I added a 1.5in FBA, resulting in a “honking great dart”, but it gives the depth I need.
3.   After an initial fitting, I realised that in addition to needing more width on the front, I needed it across the back hip (but the shoulders/neck/sleeves were fine). I cut across the upper back creating a yoke, and then cut another back piece, adding about 2in of width. I took up that width as a box pleat, before attaching onto the yoke, and then top stitching.
4.   Rather than a double front, I used the pattern piece, and created a facing on the front edges.

Overall I like this top, and I may sew it again, perhaps as other reviewers have said, with some added shaping at the sides. I can also see myself using the front features, as part of a shirt dress.  Its a lovey design, and I will wear it I am sure, but it did take an awful lot of alteration to fit me.

If there is one thing I love, its a good maxi dress. I am far too short, and wide for such a thing, but the comfort factor far outweighs any society expectations. And really, there is no disguising my size. I figure, I can’t hide it, may as well decorate it.

A friend pointed me to this designer, a new indie pattern company. I am fond of anyone who drafts for plus sizes, and better still if the design is wearable. The initial sew along design is a freebie; who doesn’t love freebies?

But, close to three metres of fabric is expensive to waste if it goes wrong, so I decided to make a toile. Yep I know, not a step I usually take. I just made the pattern length. I will extend to a maxi for the good version.

But, I am not going to make things easy on myself. After the clean up and organisation of my stash, I “found” a big length of rayon jersey. This fabric is a cow; moving as you cut, stretching out as you sew, getting wavy regardless of tension settings, and generally just behaving badly. A super quick sew, took longer, because I reinforced the neck edges, shoulder seams and waist edges with bias stay tape. It was worth it for the firm feel to the seams and edges, but not what you are supposed to do with a toile.

Initially I traced of a 4xl, grading out to a 5xl for the skirt. I think like a lot of plus sized people, I believe I am bigger than I actually am. The bodice was significantly too big, and needed close to an inch taken off the side seams. I also have too much fabric in the skirts at the sides, causing a fold over. I have pulled the pattern back to a 3xl graded to a 4xl for the hips, and I will see if that works ok next time. I am tempted to pull the shoulders up by a 1/2inch or so, but I actually like the neckline where it sits, so may just wait and see. While I hemmed the sleeves, I didn’t bother with the skirt hem. I would have to reinforce the whole hem, or it would be wavy and ugly. The viscose doesn’t fray, so I plan to just leave it as it is. I am not convinced with the back opening. The fabric is stretchy enough to go over your head easily. Its a visual aspect I suppose, but I am thinking I may leave it out, and instead shape the centre back to allow for my short waist.

The sleeves are an interesting exercise. They are open, almost all the way to the waist edge, and when you look in, you get a great view of side boob and bra. But, the fullness pretty much ensures you don’t get too x-rated. There is an option to sew a seam up from the waist edge, providing some shaping around a larger bust as well. It does ok, although I may lengthen the seam a bit for the next version.

I will sew this dress again, next time in a maxi version I think. I may also experiment with a tunic length. It clings a little at my tummy, but then, pretty much everything does that, so I just plan to ignore it.

After a couple of years focussing on quilting and gift sewing, with only a small amount of clothing sewing, I recognise that I need to update and refresh my wardrobe.  Items are falling apart, with a number of favourite shirts pilling and developing wear holes across the front (well yes I really need to develop an apron habit in the kitchen to protect my clothes).

My first step …. update my project board.  **the pink dots are things already cut out**

No 5 on my list is some pj’s, a new pattern. I am seriously in love with my fabric, so I decided to do something I don’t normally do, and do a toile for the pattern. I think the universe decided to give me a hand.

This is my favourite summer house dress; it must be at least 4 years old, and is wonderfully soft and cool to wear.

But, that habit of mine of cooking without protecting my clothes, means that the fabric has broken down at the front, creating a wear hole and tear.

I decided to use this dress, as fabric for a toile for my PJ pattern, the Ella Cami by Designer Stitch. There a couple of good reasons for this. I am thick through the middle, but narrow back and shoulder, meaning that I need to test and alter most patterns. And, my love affair fabric is lawn, so hideously expensive …. I don’t want to stuff it up.

I cut up the side seams, saving the shoulder straps to re-use. I lay out the pattern, realising my first hurdles. The frill piece most definitely wouldn’t fit, resulting in less gather, but that didn’t bother me too much. However, there was no way I can fit the facings onto my available fabric. I have decided to cut strips of the left over fabric instead, and bind the neckline/armholes. I think I will actually finish my final version this way, as I think its a less bulky option.

The finished top ……. is too big. Yep, despite all my careful measuring, I have enough fabric under the arms, to need to consider a tuck/pleat to make this version useful. I also need to consider the centre front, which is a little too wide.

I have another dress that is also in my UFO box, so I am thinking I will need to re-trace the pattern, and make some adjustments.

While I didn’t get as much sewing over the summer break as I would have liked, I did finish a few items.  My energy levels were terrible, and I was having almost constant headaches, so focussing was difficult.

My priority last year and this year, is work friendly clothing.  Stuff that is comfortable and sensible, but better suited to my figure (or lack of it).  I decided that it was time for A-line skirts and a good fitted shirt.

The A-line is an Ottobre pattern, altered for my comfort requirements.  Instead of a fitted waist, I add 3 inches width at the centre back, leave out the zip and kick split, stitch the waistband on leaving openings at the side seams, and then insert elastic across the back.  The result is a comfy skirt that looks professional from the front.  Since I don’t usually have tucked in shirts, the elastic doesn’t look out of place.

Red and black sateen

Pink Linen

Navy and cream sateen

To match to the skirts, I have made a couple of tshirts, using a free pattern I found online. I did have to do an FBA on these tops, and the resulting top is gorgeous, and a step up from a regular shirt.

Black – in a heavy poly knit.

Navy – in a heavy cotton/lycra

I am waiting for some coordinating fabric for a blouse for the pink skirt. I have one more skirt, and two more tops on the project list, and then I think my work wardrobe will be set for a while.

Red and black

Navy and cream – taken indoors as it was 41C outside, and I ain’t burning my feet on the veranda in that.