My favourite top

I have a favourite t-shirt pattern …. Violet Rose, by Ottobre.  Once I had faffed about with the sizes, figured out that I have small shoulders in comparison to my chest and hips, and that my body is a bit short, and therefore the pattern needed to be altered, I was all good.  Now its officially a T’n’T (Tried and Tested), and my first thought when I want a quick project.

I have decided that I needed a good batch of t-shirts this summer,  some to coordinate with work clothes, and some for general weekend wear.  I also decided that I needed to change the round neck for this pattern, to a v-neck.  V’s look better on me, or at least I think they do.  So I did some drafting to alter my favourite pattern to a v-neck.  I plan to add a post with instructions on how to do that, later this weekend.

So …. to start with, always a muslin.  Pick out some unremarkable self stripe knit from the stash, and start sewing.

Blue t-shirt

Then the favourite fabric, a beautiful delft blue floral print from ebay in England.  Thick and dense, this one will take years to wear out.
Blue Floral Top

neckline

And then finally some grey/green knit, found on a garage sale table.  This one is a coordinate for the cord skirt, finished a few weeks ago.  I knew I would have trouble with this skirt, and sure enough, getting a match for the colours in the print has been problematic.  Its such a strong print, that it overwhelms.  The top doesn’t quite match up, but I feel it has the same tones, and therefore compliments the colours.   Of course, being such a indeterminate colour, I didn’t have any matching thread, so I used some variegated thread I had for a special project at the start of this year.  If nothing else, it adds interest, but it also picks up on the colours in the skirt without screaming “matchy matchy”.

green top

rainbow topstitching

green skirt and top

I have some more fabric destined to become the same sort of shirt.  I know its probably poor design to have a lot of the same style, but to me its comfortable, reliable, and it fits me without making me look like a whale.

 

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Pink and cream blouse, and the perfect pattern

I am big busted, round bellied, with a fair sized butt.  My hips are narrowish in comparison, but that does not help the overall package that much.  I am also plus sized, a big woman, BBW, lush, generously proportioned, goddess shaped, perfect for a 14th century painter, or made to model for a frieze.

My commitment to sew for myself, in part comes from my difficulty in sourcing clothing that fits my body well, but even then, I can struggle with the patterns.  Invariably the bust isn’t big enough, the waist too small in comparison, and  the hips designed for a man’s body.  And so I have to make alterations.  But … not today.

Today I made up a new pattern, Style Arc Katherine Blouse – a straight size 20.  I used a piece of fabric from my stash, figuring it was cheap and if it didn’t work, I would just bin it and move on.  I have had this pattern for a while, but suffered a serious case of “new pattern nerves”, and so took ages to make up my mind and just do it. This top is actually a wearable muslin, as I have a gorgeous piece of japanese fabric to make it up with, but didn’t want to risk it without knowing how the pattern would behave. The fabric is a piece of super soft gauze’y cotton (yes really smart to test drive a pattern with such a soft fabric) that I got from some stash diving I did a while back. It had to live on the clothes line for a while, because it had a super chemical smell to it. Its a bit see through to wear on its own, to this is another top that will need a cami underneath when I wear it.

So we have …… Style Arc – Katherine Blouse, in a super fine cotton woven. Alterations: neck bow left off, snaps on placket, and I didn’t bother with the slit on the sleeve, just doing a simple cuff.

Katherine blouse

NeckbandSleeve cuff

Well there you go ….. a useful blouse, made pretty much to the supplied size. For the next one I plan to give myself a smidge more room around the hips, but the pattern is pretty much perfect for my size, so that makes me very happy.

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My sewing project list

I am part of a fantastic sewing community Artisan’s Square, which is part of the Stitchers Guild Sewing Forum. Its a lovely group, not only because there is a wonderful mix of sewing talent and tastes, but because mostly the members are focussed on producing great quality, well fitted and stylish clothing. I am a member of other forums, but its at Artisan’s Square that I really feel like I am surrounded by adults. Children’s clothes, nappies, craft and quilting are all lovely, but my focus at present is making clothes for myself, and so I appreciate this wonderful community of lovely people (gents as well as ladies) who are happy to provide considered critiques, honest opinion and helpful advice in equal measure.

So, one of the topics I am part of is a stash busting one. I realised that I should transfer it to here, to keep tabs on exactly what I need to do for the next couple of months. I keep seeing projects in my mind, adding to the stash, but not sewing. Part of the problem is that I have invested in a couple of StyleArc patterns, and I am suffering with classic “new pattern” nerves. But …. there are a number of items I really must get finished.

1. Cotton lawn peasant style top (wearable muslin) ……………….. all made, post to follow
2. Same top in my good super soft japanese fabric
3. turquoise cord skirt …………… finished, you can see it in a previous blog post
4. alter my favourite t’shirt pattern and then a smokey blue/green shirt to go with skirt ….pattern altered, wearable muslin cut out, sewn and showed off, blue/green shirt made, post to follow
5. 3 more t-shirts for summer, …….  1 shirt made, post to follow
6. xmas sewing, 8 sets of xmas bunting
7. 5 sets of pj’s ………………………….. patterns traced off for 2 sets
8. a longline garter belt
9. bag to swap for the pattern for the garter belt …………………….. traced off pattern, not in love with it, so may have to look for another
10. fit and flared summer dress.
11. modesty piece to a top I finished ages ago …… done, and I may wear it tomorrow.

Wow …… thats a serious list I think. I will edit as I complete various bits.

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Catch up, gosh its been busy

Well its been ages.  I have managed to get a bit of sewing done, but really the last couple of weeks have been so busy, that I have really felt like I haven’t sat down.  Pity all this activity just makes me tired, but does nothing for my butt.  oh well.  So …. I suppose I should catch up on the projects.

Sand and silk
A sand coloured californian knit, with neckline and hem accents in printed silk.  The silk came from a market purchase, a vintage piece with a beautiful texture, that I think helps the knit stop being so boring.  I may insert a piece into that neckline, so I don’t have to bother with a singlet.  Its hard to match the cream, and getting to warm to wear one now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’m a Laaaaaddddyyyyyyyy!
A friend invited me to High Tea at the Hyatt for her birthday, and so I frocked up. I have featured the linen dress I wore before, but when I decided to wear it, I remembered that I had planned to make a slip for it, as I was paranoid about the possibility of “doing a diana”. So, cue one bias cut lawn slip.
cream slip

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I don’t scrub up too bad.,……..
High tea

And finally, today’s effort. A blue cord skirt, based yet again on Ottobre 02/2010 #15 Debra skirt, this time with gathering rather than darts. Either way I still couldn’t get the gosh-darn-it waist to sit right. I am not sure what the problem is, but no matter how I fiddle it will be tight right up to the point I go to wear it, and then will be loose. Still, it will be a good base for work, although I need to make a top for it, as its already too warm for the long sleeve pink top.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And a modelled shot …. complete with sun in my eyes and unbrushed hair.

Blue cord skirt

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I feel the need …….

…….. the need to tweak.  (as in patterns …. not body parts)

Ready to wear clothing has a distinct advantage in the design stage, in comparison to home sewn clothing.  The design phase usually has many many steps, where a design is pattern developed, tested, more development, and more testing …. before the finished style hits the shops.  This means that mistakes, unbalanced points, and stuff that just plain doesn’t work is all weeded out before we see the ready to sell product.

Home sewing doesn’t have that luxury.  The lack of local milling means that we don’t have access to inexpensive fabric, and generally, can’t afford to throw away good fabric on experimentation.  So while we rely on pattern makers to have a error free product, there is the need to adjust designs to allow for individual taste and body proportions.

I made up a design recently, which due to the complexity of the pattern, and google-centricity (new word made by me) of the instructions……. took me 3 times as long as I usually did to make.  I referred to it as Satan’s Own Pattern.  Now despite the troubles I had with it, the top actually fit really well, and suited my figure.  But, there were aspects I hated ….. no idea if the instructions included seam allowances, rolled edge hemming instead of turned up hemming is a fast sewing technique, but not a neat finish.  And a floaty, large width sleeve is not my natural choice.    And so …. I tweaked the design.  Replace the floaty sleeve with a gathered one from another pattern, lower the back collar height, add seam allowances all around to give me some more ease, and add hem allowance to the sleeves and hem to give a more professional finish.    And overall I am very happy with the result.  This is definitely a top I will wear to work.

Black Cross-over blouse

Now the problem I have, is that I feel the need to tweak the design more. A dart along the top of the shoulder will take up a lot of the “puffy” effect, meaning the sleeve would sit better. But, tweaking means I would have another version of the same top …. not exactly the most style conscious thing to do. hhhmmmm ….. maybe I will wait for a fabric to call out for it, and try it then.

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Xmas Banner – Part 5

Yes, I am quite aware that the banner used in the instructions is not xmas’y, but still, its pretty huh?

Creating a Xmas Banner – part 5

Happy sewing everyone!

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I don’t quilt!

…… not that there is anything wrong with it.   🙂

I have never felt the quilting love.  You would think, that with my tendency to being a perfectionist, and my obsession with detail, that quilting would be a great hobby, but I have just never felt the love.    I do appreciate the work and artistic skill quilters have, and I am sometimes awed by the items they produce, but I just don’t have the artistic flair to take a couple of kilos of little tiny bits of fabric, and then sew them together into something that would look lovely.

Although I don’t quilt, I do dabble with the techniques occasionally.  Last year I made some simple mug rugs.  This year, thanks to a tutorial I found on
http://gogokim.blogspot.com.au/2011/12/cathedral-window-pin-cushion-tutorial.html

I have experimented with cathedral windows. I quite like this single window design, but I am not sure I have the dedication to make it in a full quilt type fashion. This will do me for now …… its simple, but quite cute.
cathedral window pin cushion.

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Satan’s Pattern from Hell

Otherwise known as the purple cross over blouse.

Really, the signs were all there, but I didn’t listen to the universe, and so I was punished. The pattern was a generous freebie, the design was one that appealed to me, and the fabric was unusual. And so I descended on my path to hell.

First tracing off the pattern. Not a task to be attempted with a light heart.

After reading the magazine from front to back, I still don’t know if seam allowances are included. Luckily is doesn’t seem to have made any difference. The fabric is an unusual piece, which I picked up at a garage sale. It was only 90cm wide, which created a challenge in layout. It behaves like cotton, but has a micro-crepe like texture. It doesn’t seem like it crushes, so that is a good thing. Reading the instructions was like trying to follow a frog on speed. It hopped from one aspect of the shirt to another, often with no discernible reason why, and in one instance, actually had to be followed backwards. Boy …. that was fun. I had to alter slightly at the underarms, because while my girls are lush, my chest wall isn’t deep, so I ended up with an excess of fabric under the arms. I might possibly hate the sleeves …. we shall see.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Overall its a lovely design, but the journey to get there took an eternity, and involved an excessive amount of unpicking. I probably won’t make it again, but it does tell me that a cross over design is good for me.

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Xmas Banner – part 4

Time to get working on the next step. This one isn’t xmas fabric, but its a tutorial on creating your binding strip. Have fun.

Creating a Xmas Banner – part 4

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Xmas Banner – Part 3

Today’s tutorial covers finishing the edges of the flags for our banner.

Creating a Xmas Banner – part 3

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