Chevron Cami ….. and adjusting fit

I came across this pattern company quite by accident. A very new independent designer, I was pointed to their site, through a topic on Artisans Square.

At first look, I wasn’t particularly interested, since their size charts finished at Size 14, and I haven’t been that size in decades. However, encouraged by other sewists productions, I went back and had another look. While the largest size was size 14, the measurements attached to that size fitted my ample girth, with perhaps a little extra needed for my tummy/hips. So, I thought I would give them a try.

Disparate Disciplines ……. an unusual name for a pattern company, but certainly quirky and memorable.

My first foray into the DD world, was with the Yellow Tail Camisole (there is a reason for the different names, but I will let you find that out for yourself).

My first problem, was I think because of the fabric I have chosen to test this pattern with. Its a super soft, extremely drapey, viscose jersey. I have a feeling that at least part of the reason the cami is so big, is that the pieces grew as I was working with it.

But …. big it is. Based on both the body and garment measurements, I cut out a size 14, grading out slightly at the hips to allow for my tummy. The bodice has ended up too wide across the bust, and I had to cut back nearly an inch off the armhole towards the CF, on both sides, just to get the armhole to finish close to the front. I have a feeling I need to cut one or two sizes smaller in the bust area at least. The back is correspondingly too big as well, resulting in me attaching and ripping out the FOE 3 times, in an effort to pull it in tight enough to actually stay up. Its ended up a lot more baggy across the back than the pattern description would have you think. The “v” effect in the centre front is far easier to do than you would imagine, although I did ditch-stitch at the front, as I wasn’t entirely happy at leaving the centre of the inner facing just floating free. This top would respond well to being coverstitched I think.

I apologise now for my visible bra, but nothing will convince me to publish a photo online with my girls unharnessed.

As you can see, the back is very low

Holy boobs batman! ….. yep, but I wanted to show you a closeup of the pointed bit, which I must say, I am pretty darn impressed with.

And the side seam. Its hard to see because of the print (and the wicked accidental pattern matching), but the extra width on the bodice, combined with the need to pull the elastic really tight to make it fit at the back, has meant that the side seam is pulled badly to the back.

I think, if I make this again, I need to take it down at least one or maybe two sizes, at least in the shoulders and upper back area. I am also considering reconfiguring the strap arrangement. While a fine strap is delicate, for those of us with ample assets, there is a deep and abiding need for something to cover the heavy duty trussing our girls need.

Overall, the pattern is lovely, with great detailed instructions, and a funky printed envelope to store all the bits in.  Just for my wonky body, it needs a little bit of fine tuning.